May 29 2021 0 Comments
Here's a quick tutorial to make the insides of your shirt, blouses & dresses all nice & neat by hiding the seams of the front & back of a shirt on inside of the inner & outer yokes.
See the end of the blog post for some bonus ideas.
1. Right sides together, align the right side of your back shirt with the right side of the bottom of your OUTER yoke, matching any notches you may have. Pin & baste in place, just within the seam allowance.
2. Align the right side of the INNER yoke to the wrong side of your back shirt, again matching any notches & sew through the 3 layers (back shirt, inner & outer yoke) at the given seam allowance. (If you're confident you can combine these 2 steps & sew them at the same time).
3. Press the seam allowance up into the yoke. Depending on the thickness of your fabric you may want to grade your seam allowance.
4. Take your 2 front pieces & align the right sides with the right sides of the top of your OUTER yoke, ensuring that the centre seams of the fronts are facing the middle. Pin & baste just within the seam allowance.
You should now have the fronts & back sewn to the outer yoke with the inner yoke only sewn to the back. This is where the magic happens & where the Burrito method gets its name.
5. Flip the garment over so that you're looking at the right sides. Roll the front pieces up as tightly as you can & repeat for the back piece. Make sure that you don't accidentally roll up the inner yoke - it should be left hanging free.
6. Now wrap the yokes around the rolled fronts & backs until the RIGHT sides meet, (the right sides will have the fronts & backs sewn to them, so you will have four layers of fabric with the yokes outside).
7. Pin & sew the right sides of the yokes together at the seam allowance, ensuring that you don't catch any of the front & back shirts. Grade your seam allowances if required.
And ta da you have your Burrito, the shirt is the filling & the yoke is the wrap - now to reveal the shirt in all it's glory!
8. Pull the rolled up shirt fronts & backs through the neck hole & you will see that all the seams are beautifully encased within the yokes.
9. Time for a good press & your shirt, blouse or dress is ready for side seams, sleeves & hemming.
- You may also want to topstitch the yoke around 1/8" away from the stitching line at the back & front, this provides extra strength at the seams as well as being decorative.
- You can use a contrast fabric on the inner yoke, as in the demonstration, this is a good idea if you don't have quite enough fabric or if your fabric is slightly see through & you have a pattern that may show through if used on both inner & outer yokes.
- If you're using stripes or checks try cutting the outer yoke on the bias to give your garment some extra detail.
- You could go one step further & add some piping at the front & back or even a small hook to give it a ready to wear feel.
Here's some shirts, blouses & dresses you can practice your new found skills with..
Closet Core Patterns Kalle Shirt Dress
Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt & Dress
Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress
Megan Nielsen Matilda Dress